Colourful. My first impression of the city of Lisboa is that there is life here. Everywhere my eyes look there is a cheerful embrace for my eyeballs. When the sun shines, buildings glow.
It is a unique feeling being here. I know I am in Europe, I can sense the European undertones in the buildings, small windy streets, little fiats, cobblestone pavements, fashion and the food. But Portugal is not like the rest of Europe. there is a global influence here and yet they have remained steadfast in their traditions. Life here is slower, relaxed, honest and vibrant.
Its’ like The Mediterranean meets Middle East meets France, yet somehow it is still just Portugal. Bold, charismatic and one-of-a-kind.
I’ve come here on a one-way ticket hoping to set up a life here but for the first couple months I’m enjoying my ferias (holidays). Which means, a lot of wandering around the glorious streets, succumbing to the irresistible pastelarias and being wowed by the quaint towns I daytrip to.
If you’re coming to Lisbon for any amount of time, I highly recommend spending a day just browsing. Simply get lost, soak in the sights, bathe in the colours, discover the standing bistros where locals eat their lunch and be recharged in the sun. When I spent a day doing this, here’s how it went:
Bom Dia
It’s been over 48 hours and I still haven’t had a pastel de nata so first things first, I’m on the hunt for a pastelaria. My cousin (who I am staying with) recommended a place called Versailles (Which I have since discovered is different to where I ended up…oh well).
I was not disappointed by the grandness of this place. White table cloths, waiters wearing suits, magnificent marble building and an awe-inspiring interior (safe to say, it is no ordinary pastelaria). The entrance is an unassuming set of narrow doors which open into a grand room with high ceilings, solid oak columns and a glowing chandelier. The L shaped counter spans the length of the room and is filled with every pastry, biscuit and cake you could dream of.
It’s hard to decide whether to sit outside in the shiny white cobblestone bistro area – Portuguese style – or enjoy the wonder of the interior. Outside it is though, I guess I will just have to come back again 😛
Sitting here I can imagine being a 19th century aristocrat living the high life. But then I’m brought back to reality…….
As I sit there enjoying my new European lifestyle, teeny espresso, pastel de nata and bolo de Chocolate, which I wouldn’t usually order but couldn’t decide what else to get so I asked the waiter to surprise me (I highly recommend doing this when you travel btw!). Then the most horrifying thing occurred.
I’m having this chocolate cake (which turned out to be the gooy-est, most divine chocolate cake I’ve ever had btw) and at some point, I don’t know how or when, a bird had pooed on my table.
But that’s not the terrible part.
No.
How did I come to realise a bird had pooed on my table you ask?
Well *shivers* in my distraction, my thumb must have grazed it and when noticing the brown on my thumb I thought ooh, I’ve gotten chocolate on my finger. As I lift my thumb to my mouth and place it on my tongue, the realisation sets in…..
There are not enough napkins in the world that can wipe away my disgust.
Let this be a lesson to you all to always be on guard for the sparrows who like to make fancy outdoor bistros their supermarket and to never, under any circumstance, eat any surprise substance from your fingers without meticulous prior inspection.
Boa Tarde
Thankfully, this utter blunder did not set the tone for the rest of my day. From Saldanha I set off on foot towards Chiado, the city centre, to explore Lisbon. I didn’t have a specific destination, just a general direction – the best way to discover if you ask me – and 40 minuets later I was in Martim Moniz Square. Here you can catch the famous 28 tram but my tip: skip the queues and don’t catch it from the very first stop.
I wanted to wander the narrow network of old-town Lisbon, which apparently is the only part of the city that wasn’t destroyed by the infamous 1755 earthquake. But, to be completely honest, this is now a pretty dodgy part of town. Portuguese people don’t live there anymore and it can feel a bit seedy, especially as a woman. So I don’t recommend navigating this area alone, despite all its quaint charm.
Not to worry, Praca do commercio it is! Here you will find the very well-known glowing white square at the water-front where a statue of Vasco de Gama stands tall and proud in the centre. To the right of this square (if you’re facing with water) are an infinite array of cobbly streets to feast your eyes on.
I continued winding my way through Cais do Sodre and then Bairro Alto where my eyes did not grow tired of the views around every corner.
It’s easy to get lost in the charming streets and bright colours. Lisbon is a city that has an amazing feast for the eyes everywhere you turn. I don’t think it will ever get old.
In addition to the signature colourful buildings, around every corner (it seems) is a cute little square filled with people esplanading, sun shining and bands playing. It’s spring here at the moment which means all the Jacaranda trees are blossoming their purple flowers which only adds to the vibes.
Boa Noite
I spent the evening in an answered prayer, my new community hub in Rato.
Freedom City Church is a modern Christian church that meets every Sunday at 4:30 pm and 6:15 pm for people of all ages and backgrounds. If you are passing through Lisbon or just moved like me, I highly encourage you to come along to one of their Sunday services. You’re bound to make friends and feel immediately welcomed.
I haven’t been here long, but I can already feel something brewing here in Lisbon and I am excited to be a part of it. In the distance I can hear all the future opportunities to discover the deliciousness of Lisbon are beckoning me.
Remember that being a tourist does not mean having to line up for all the common attractions, the best way to discover a place is to see it on foot and happen across its’ hidden gems.
Happy discovering!
Until next time,
Luisa
